KERRY GIRL’S CLYDE CRUISE, 2004.

 
 

 

Friday 6 August.

On a cloudy, mild afternoon I slipped our mooring at  Sunderland and motored up with the flood to the club jetty. Pebbles was in the act of  being  hauled out after their night return from Wales, dodging lightning and coping with strong winds. This was handy, as it meant Mrs. Pebbles was on hand to take my lines, and after making all secure Audrey arrived and we proceeded to load up. After an hour’s work it was all stowed on board and the boot topping had disappeared. We retired to the club for a well earned  “quick” drink  and several hours later we hit our bunks with our  feet  a lot lower than our heads     ( the tide was out.).

 

 Saturday 7 August

We cast off at 4.30 with only a light breeze and an overcast sky. Destination Ramsey, the first leg of our journey to the Clyde. It turned into a hot, sunny day with only a very light Westerly blowing so it was motor all the way. We arrived in Ramsey at 16.30 and tied up against the wall.                                                                                                                                        

Sunday 8 August.

Three quarter gale from the South  East  last  night and all day. This created quite a surge in the harbour and by 16.00 it was raining heavily. The forecast for the next day was quite promising,3 to 4 SE, fair.

Monday 9August.

Torrential  rain complete with thunder all night. I lay there wondering whether to go, and, as if in answer, the rain became even heavier and the thunder rattled the wash boards. I rolled over. The rain and wind persisted until mid-afternoon and when it finally stopped  we  boarded a bus for Douglas and spent a pleasant few hours there. We arrived back in Ramsey at 21.55 to a calm cloudy night. Forecast for tomorrow, 3-4 SE with sunny periods. Hope springs eternal!

Tuesday 10 August.

I woke up at 5.00 and lay listening to the heavy rain and thunder. “Sod this,” I thought, “we’re going.” We like Ramsey  but  enough is enough. The rain had stopped to catch it’s breath as we cast off at 6.10.As we turned into the harbour entrance Silver River was coming in, so we had to turn back and mark time. Even so, we made good time up to Point of Ayre, arriving in time to catch the first of the ebb into the North  channel. We set course for the Mull and after a while the rain came back. And   boy, did it rain! At first we were motoring so I could sit under the spray hood and let the tiller pilot do the work but after a while the wind  freshened  from  the  North East so I hoisted sail. The auto helm was struggling so I had to steer. Rain, rain and more rain, not bad considering the forecast said light showers.  We made good time and could have reached Port Patrick by 14.30 but that was about low water so I rolled the jib away to slow down. I need not have  bothered as I’m sure I would have had enough water under my 3ft keels. Anyway, we tied up at 16.30 just as the sun broke through.

Wednesday 11 August.

Last night turned foggy and it was still thick when we opened the hatch in the morning. We walked round to

 

 

the other side of the  harbour  to the showers and  made ourselves feel more human, then returned on board and ate breakfast while we waited to see if the fog would clear. By 12.00 it seemed a bit thinner so we decided to go. As we passed through the  harbour mouth it was like running into a brick wall but after ten minutes we came out into much thinner stuff. Unfortunately the very place we needed clear vision, the ferry route off  Loch  Ryan, was so thick we could hardly see our own bow. Last year we had experienced exactly the same conditions here so I had given a bit more thought to things. Firstly, I had penciled in the ferry track  from  Loch Ryan to Larne on the chart to give me an idea of the danger zone and secondly,  I had the VHF tuned to Ch.14 on dual watch. Sure enough, when  we were slap on the line a sea cat (name forgotten) called, outward bound. I immediately called him up and was reassured by an Irish voice telling me that he was aware of us. 

 

 

 

 

 

Never the less, I didn’t relax until we were well away from that line on the chart. Soon the fog began to thin out, so I went below for a sleep. After an  hour  I  came back up on deck into  brilliant sunshine. Ailsa Craig lay dead ahead, seven miles away and the Troon  seacat was passing well to the West of  it. As we drew level with the island, more fog came down, but not for long. As it cleared, the weather took a turn for the worse, with heavy cloud building over to the East. The wind was backing to the North and as I bore away our course took us close to Pladda island. As it had been a longish trip I decided not to beat to windward (I’m not a purist!) and started the donkey. In heavy, overcast skies we picked up a visitor’s mooring off  Lamlash at 20.20 hrs. It was all  serene and still as we ate our supper but as darkness fell, an ominous roll began. Well, the pilot book did warn us. By the time we hit the sack it felt as if the gunnels were going under and yet the wind didn’t seem that bad.

Thursday 12 August.

We were rolled all night until  I  thought the mast was coming out. Plus  heavy rain for good measure. We brewed up  then  cast off and motored across to Holy  Island in a heaving beam swell. Two other yachts lay at anchor here (one from Fleetwood,  “ Mavis T ” ) Here, the swell which had plagued us all night was non-existant and we spent the whole day battened down under dripping skies.

Friday 13 August.

 

 We awoke to a much better morning, blue  sky, good sailing breeze and  stunning  scenery.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We decided on a short sail into Brodick bay. After breakfast, I lifted the anchor with some difficulty, as it was fouled with Kelp but by 9.30 all sail was up and we were on our way. In a 3-4 NE we beat out of Lamlash bay

 

 

  Soon, the wind dropped to a 2 and backed to NNE so our eight miles over the ground took us rather a long time. Never mind, we were on our holidays. Eventually we fetched up under the castle in Brodick bay and dropped anchor. Here, we spent an idyllic afternoon watching seals sun bathe under the hot August sun until it was time to leave for Millport. There was only a whisper of breeze so we motored the fourteen miles on a glassy sea. Our intention was to pick up a visitor’s mooring but these were all taken so we dropped anchor close by the pier.

 

 

Saturday 14 August.

We surfaced to another  glorious day, hardly a cloud in the sky.

After a leisurely breakfast we motored gently up the Hunterston channel to Largs marina. Here, we took the opportunity to clean the boat before our friends , Chris and Louise arrived by car to spend the week with us. We enjoyed a good evening meal in the restaurant then went back on board to talk over the coming week.

Sunday 15 August

After a trip into Largs to stock up with supplies we left in the afternoon, bound for Holy loch. Under a blue sky with broken cloud we goose winged before a steady SSW wind until we had passed Inverkip chimney and had Gourock on our starboard beam. Having cleared the ferry route, Holy loch and Loch Long opened to Port and we came on to a  reach. This was a relief , as the rolling we had  endured down wind  was replaced by a brilliant sail until we came to anchor not far from the old disused pier.

Monday 16 August.

4.30, rain drumming on the roof  and  we were almost touching a moored  ketch. There was nothing for it, the poor old skipper had to go on deck and shorten off the anchor warp. Two hours later, same performance! By this time the whole crew was up so we had an early breakfast. Chris did a bit of fishing while I went off in the dinghy to investigate the pier. Landing was no problem but I discovered that the landward end was closed and locked off. This wasn’t a problem as later we landed close by on a slipway. The rain had stopped by now leaving a damp overcast day. First call was the marina for a nose round. It was well found but quite small and appeared to be almost full of local yachts. As we left, the heavens opened and we had to run to the only shelter available, the pub! Two hours later we emerged into bright sunshine and steam rising from the road. Fortified by “several” drinks we stepped it out for Dunoon, about three miles away. Here the distaff side of the crew gave vent to their basic instincts – shopping. Time to get back, but here I was faced with mutiny. Point blank refusal to walking back, so we took a taxi.

Tuesday 17 August.

It rained again in the early hours but by the time we  left  at 9.00

it was a fine sunny day. We turned to port into Loch Long bound for Loch Goil, with a lunch stop at Ardentinny. As we neared our lunch stop, the sky darkened and the wind, which had been quite weak, now began to blow in earnest. In pelting rain I picked up the mooring then scrambled below. For fifteen minutes we listened to the drumming rain then as suddenly as it came it was gone, replaced by hot sunshine. We continued on our way, eventually playing touch and go with the police patrol boat guarding the submarine pen. Every time we came onto the port tack he started to cross our bows to ward us off. This carried on for some considerable time, as there was not much wind. I don’t know who was more relieved when the sub pen was astern- us or the patrol boat. Anyway, it seemed a very spooky place, like something from a James Bond film.

A few miles further on we took a left into Loch Goil, by now keen to get the hook down, and at 19.15, we slid to anchor under the ruins of Carrick castle, where later we were treated to a perfect sunset as we ate our evening meal in the cockpit.

Wednesday 18 August

The day dawned wet with a strong gusting wind. I rowed ashore to drop the rubbish, more to stretch my legs and look at the castle than anything else. Heading back I had hard work of it going into the heavy swell and began to wish I had shipped the engine, but eventually made it  back on board. After breakfast it was up anchor and set course up the loch to Loch Goil Head in heavy rain. Arriving off the village we were, as the Scots say,” a bit drook’it” (loosely translated: bloody soaked!) Never mind. We picked up a visitor’s mooring then went below to dry out. An hour later the sun broke through so we went ashore to explore and stock up the ship’s bar.

 

 

 

Half day closing, wouldn’t  you know it! We started  to walk up  the road, a bit disconsolate, when the sky, which unnoticed, had been turning an ugly shade of purple and black, unleashed  a torrential downpour, complete with thunder and lightning. Nothing for it but to dive into the nearest doorway- which  happened to be a pub! We’re lucky like that. Looking through the bar window we watched first, the surrounding hills then Kerry Girl disappear behind a black wall of cloud. Half an hour later, the sun was beaming and  the loch looked like a picture postcard. Of course, this didn’t solve the problem of the dry ship but a kindly local hinted that the caravan site shop might be open. This shop lay some three quarters of a mile across the loch so, dropping off our better halves, Chris and I carried on in the dinghy. The mission was a success, although the two bottles we purchased looked as though they had been on the shelf since the American submarine fleet  departed.

Thursday 19 August.

A beautiful morning. Azure blue sky, hills that looked as though they had just been painted and the loch like glass. Now I remembered why we had come to Scotland again! We ate our breakfast in the cockpit in crystal clear air then while the motley crew made ready for sea I went ashore  to dump the rubbish. The visitor moorings are free but a notice at the slipway stated  that voluntary contributions for their upkeep would be welcome.

Fair enough. I coughed up a fiver at the garage at the top of the slip, which made me feel quite virtuous for the rest of the day. Casting off, we motor sailed down the loch amidst stunning scenery.

 

 

As we drew abeam of  Carrick castle an ugly black cloud, which had been following us on our starboard side, commenced to cover the sky until the idyllic morning we had been enjoying was gone. There was a breeze but it was always heading us, probably because of the narrowness of the  loch. We stopped again at Ardentinny, once again in a solid downpour. Chris, the intrepid fisherman, caught two Mackerel and numerous small Whiting while the skipper slept his dinner off. As we reached the lower end of Loch Long the wind became more reliable and we hoisted sail. I had intended to put in to Rhu marina for the night but as we had to return our friends to Largs by Saturday I decided to head for Kip instead.

 Here we found a well  run friendly marina with good facilities and a superb restaurant.

 

Friday 20 August.    

 

                                                                                       Another fine day which we spent looking at new and second boats. Opal marine were very obliging, handing over keys to us even though we stressed that we were only browsing. Later we walked into Inverkip for supplies (about a 10 minute walk).At 17.00 we left Kip bound for Largs. The channel  outside  the marina had some quite heavy looking seas caused by a F6 from the NorthWest blowing  against the flood tide. Mindful of turning into the wind to lower the main when we reached Largs I put two reefs in and fully opened the genoa. We broad reached until we entered the Hunterston channel on the Great Cumbrae side then handed the sails and motored across into the marina. Unfortunately we were allocated a berth on the windward side of the pontoons and this resulted in near disaster as we were blown onto a berthed yacht. We managed to sheer off with inches to spare then came round for another try. This time we were more successful and tied up without any more drama.

Saturday 21 August

We said goodbye to Chris and Louise then at 14.05 set sail for Troon. It was a lovely day and it was heaving with yachts and dinghys as, not only was it Saturday but also a regatta. We beat down the channel, leaving the nuclear power station to port. As we cleared Farland Pt. I bore away on course for Troon. Five miles on the wind veered to the SouthEast , on the nose so we handed the sails and motored the rest of the way, arriving at 19.00. We had to wait for the seacat to come out before entering but he was soon gone.

22 August.Sunday

Another fine day so we decided to have a day off, although the forecast was sounding a bit dodgy for later in the week. Most of the morning was spent cleaning the boat and looking round the chandlery. Now the forecasts began to worry me as 7’s and 8’s were mentioned more and more.

Monday 23 August.

The predicted gale didn’t arrive, instead we got an over cast day with light drizzle. Annoying, because we could have gone. To kill time we had a walk into town but Troon on a wet Monday afternoon isn’t my idea of fun. We decided that tomorrow we would chance it. With three longish sails in front of us I was keen to get on although Audrey, the newly promoted navigator told me to stop being a worry guts!

Tuesday 24 August.

What a cracking day. It started off grey and overcast but by the time Lady Isle. was astern and Ayr was on the beam the cloud began to break and patches of blue appeared. The only drawback was lack of wind. Still, this was better than the predicted 7. Under a steadily widening blue sky we motored on, playing scrabble in the cockpit while the auto helm gave an occasional grunt. This was the life! Nearing Loch Ryan a light breeze sprang up from astern so, because I was fed up with losing at scrabble I hoisted the main and broke out the spinnaker. After only half an hour the wind veered to dead ahead then died away completely. There was nothing for it but to hand the sails then sit on the fore deck and enjoy the sun. As we picked up the flood in the North channel we made good time, averaging 6 knots, so that we arrived off Port Patrick at 15.00. It was such a lovely afternoon that we didn’t go straight in but stopped the engine and drifted while Audrey made tea and I  jigged for Mackerel. (Catch: 1 Weever and 1 Mackerel). Once inside the harbour and tied up there was time for a shower then a visit to the pub before going back on board for an early night.

Wednesday 25 August

The forecast was for a 4-5 NW with showers. We left Port Patrick just behind  Northern Lights, a Liverpool boat. Her skipper, Paul, was taking her home single handed from a cruise to mallaig via the Mull of Kintyre where he had encountered Minkie whales and Basking sharks. As we cleared the harbour entrance the sea was pretty rough but as we were on a broad reach things weren’t too bad. We sailed in company round the Mull where, apart from a short argument with some overfalls, the sea state was quite good. Better, in fact than up at Port Patrick. Leaving the Mull astern, the waves became progressively steeper until we neared the Point of Ayre, when a really big breaking wave almost rolled us. She lay over on her beam ends before righting herself, all in a matter of seconds (which seemed like hours) then was on her way again. Point of Ayre in a F6 is not for the faint hearted! After this there were no more mishaps and soon we were round the corner and in the lee of the island. We parted company with Northern Lights and Paul off Ramsey. They were going on to Douglas. As we turned the final corner into the harbour there was Martin’s new power  boat looking resplendent against the wall.

Thursday 26 August.

The forecast said F 7 so we didn’t go. By now you’ve guessed it, it was more like a F4. We spent the day kicking our heels and buying supplies.

Friday 27 August.

 “Force 4 NW” said the printout in the harbour master’s window. At last! 9.00 saw us clearing the harbour  and hoisting sail. We passed Maughold Head in some fairly big waves but I thought, “Well, it’ll flatten out when we get to deeper water.” Wishful thinking!  About ten miles out the wind was NW alright but anything but a F4.The main was brought down and stowed and we plunged on, at one stage hitting 9.7 kts on the G.P.S. down the front of a wave. I’ll draw a veil over the next six hours or so, only saying that we were both glad to get into Piel. 

 

 

 

 

Saturday 26 August.

Sunny with a 3-4 Westerly. A quiet trip across, but it was nice to be back in home waters. As we reached Sunderland we ran into the start of the first cruiser race of the regatta and, avoiding this, motored into the dock. We had been away for 22 days and clocked up 429NM. We’d had some terrible weather but also some beautiful sunny days and enjoyed every minute.